Preview: Re-Sheathing the Deck of a Wooden Boat, Part 3 – Preparing the Deck

14 Responses So Far to “Re-Sheathing the Deck of a Wooden Boat, Part 3 – Preparing the Deck”

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  Tom Sliter says:

  Even though I’m unlikely to need to replace the Dynel deck on my 16-foot gaff-rigged day sailor anytime soon, I love watching you go through the thought process involved and the hands-on work. I had a thought about the joint where the Dynel meets the cabin top side. Why not use your oscillating saw with a semi-circular flush cutting blade to cut a small groove or channel maybe 1/8″-3/16″ underneath the side of the cabin top. Then overcut the Dynel so you can push the excess into the channel, a little like caulking a seam, followed by epoxy. Seems it would make for a sturdier, more watertight joint. I’m looking forward to future episodes. Keep up the informative work!

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    Eric Blake says:

    Tom,
    I used a similar method with the triangular scraper. The apex of the blade undercuts the intersection of the cabin house side and deck giving me a place to tuck the cloth and seal the intersection. Thanks for watching.

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  Steve Brooke says:

  Was the paint under the canvas a white lead base? It is easy to test for. I have found that I can taste white lead dust whenever I run into it. Even very small amounts taste sweet.

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    Eric Blake says:

    Steve,
    If not lead paint I am sure it is something I don’t want to breath or get on my skin. These video’s are shot many times after the fact. A proper dust mask, tyvek suit and gloves were worn coupled with a high quality vacuum cleaner.

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  Denny Frehsee says:

  You indicated you were going to use both fiberglass and Dynel. Isn’t just a single layer Dynel set in epoxy sufficient? What would be the purpose of fiberglassing first?

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    Eric Blake says:

    Denny,
    The original canvas was not structural nor would a single layer of Dynel this thin. I figured since I had all of the hardware and wood work removed I might as well go the belts and suspenders rout. A layer of 12 oz biaxial cloth is similar to a single layer of 3mm plywood under the Dynel which really helps give the deck an incredible amount of torsional strength. It really helps to spread the loads from the mast throughout the foredeck.

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  Bruce Finlay says:

  Hi Eric, will you Everdure the timber before sheathing ?? I’m in Australia, if Everdure is not over there, it’s a wood epoxy sealer, very thin, really works well, thanks.

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    Eric Blake says:

    Bruce,
    I have never heard of Evendure. The problem with using an epoxy so thin is that it will run through every joint between the tounge and groove and make a mess inside of the boat.
    I just use regular epoxy and wet through the cloth just enough to wet it out evenly.

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  James Thomas says:

  As Eric was explaining his work, I noted the interior wood surfaces of the boat shed surrounding him and the work. Beautiful, but I imagine completely uninsulated in Maine’s ferocious winter cold. Hopefully the Dynel and epoxy work is all done before temperatures drop. Thanks.

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  Colin Nash says:

  Following this with interest from the UK. M/V Tangle’s mahogany decks are covered i
  with Trakmark, a textured Dunlop material that’s NLA. I’m thinking that thus Dynel technique may be the way ahead. Most useful. Thank-you.

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  Trisha McElroy says:

  I love the old canvas decks!! I’ve seen them last forever and look how good the cedar was preserved under it. Something to be said for old school. K.I.S.S.

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    Eric Blake says:

    Trisha,
    There are many things to say about old school.
    Canvas in paint is simple and lasted for 59 years.
    I am taking a modern approach here hoping to get another 60 out of the repair.

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  Ed Altonji says:

  Enjoying these, thank you. How you’re bringing the cloth to the cabin seems like it could open and let water in to my admittedly ignorant thinking. Would finishing this with quarter round help seal the deal? Maybe I just need to wait for you to show me!

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    Eric Blake says:

    Ed,
    Please see my response to Tom above