Preview: Cool Sail Rigging Tips #1 – Turnbuckles & Pins
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December 18, 2014
Email this Video to a FriendRigging tips from the pro on how best to handle turnbuckles and those terrible cotter pins.
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22 Responses So Far to “Cool Sail Rigging Tips #1 – Turnbuckles & Pins”
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Bruce Bolster says:
Are you sure yourse are the smallest size of Knipex pliers wrench? After watching this video, I ordered a 6 inch example of these expensive tools. Now that it has arrived, it looks smaller than the one you are using in the video. Do you perhaps have the 7 1/4 inch unit? I hope the one I have is robust enough for turnbuckles and other applications on a 30-foot sailboat.
Brion Toss says:
Hmm, it looks like Knipex makes a 7″ version now. I am not near my tools right now, but that might be the size i have. Will check back here soon and let you know.
Bruce Bolster says:
Thanks Brion!
They even make a 5 1/2 inch version, apparently.
Bruce.
Peter McClennen says:
Hi – where can one find a TIG rod for rigging?
Brion Toss says:
Hello,
TIG rod is available from just about any welding supply shop. Ask for silicon bronze or type 316 stainless. 3/32″ is right for most yachts under 40 ft or so.
Michael DeTemple says:
Hi- would 3/32 also work for a smaller boat, like a cape dory typhoon?
Brion Toss says:
Hi,
If 3/32″ is too large for the turnbuckle cotter pin holes, then use 1/16″. For very large turnbuckles, by the way, 1/8″ is better. In any event, the TIG size is scaled to the likely torque that it will be stopping.
Greg Mactye says:
Nice to see that someone still has aesthetics in mind. (No surprise though, it being on THIS forum)! LOL
GM
Fred Hooper says:
cotter pins can be pulled quickly if you de-mast, HOW WOULD YOU REMOVE THESE QUICKLY/EASILY?
Brion Toss says:
Hi there,
The difficulty involved in removing cotter pins is a big reason why I like TIG. True, if you don’t bend them flat with the surface of the stud, they aren’t as difficult, but then they stick out and gouge things and people, or require bulky covers.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss
Fred Hooper says:
I’m still a little confused. Explain how you would remove the TIG quickly.
Brion Toss says:
Hi again,
Um, straighten it. If you use bronze, this will be easier than with stainless. It is even possible to do it without tools. If you have nippers, just cut the bend off one end, and work the remainder out of the other stud. I think that either way it is at least as easy as cotters, and much easier than them if they have gotten twisted…
Fair leads,
Brion Toss
Fred Hooper says:
I like the bronze idea. Thanks
michael mccalpin says:
I use left over ground wire from romax 12/2 or 14/2 its laying around on construction sites.
John McWilliams says:
I have Knipex on order. Also the pliers Brion uses are ideally suited to the rod bending tasks. Who makes them?
Jason Blaschka says:
Those velcro wraps look cool, but in my opinion would probably only last a year before I wouldn’t trust them anymore. Brion’s tip is cheap and long lasting.
David Tew says:
Mine have lasted five summers. The velcro is heavy duty and holds very well. Mine are also on a boat that is used for racing occasion so adjusting the standing rigging swiftly underway as conditions change is desirable. They can also be secured around wet fingers while making those adjustments. Different strokes is all.
Gino Del guercio says:
Excellent video. Let’s see more like these.
Brion, quick question: what size welding rod were you using?
Sam Moore says:
I emailed Brion directly. He says 3/32 silicon bronze or stainless steel rods are what he recommends (some thought to turnbuckle size should be made). That was what he recommended for my Sabre 402.
Steve Stone says:
Thanks Sam.
David Tew says:
Cotter pins are the pits. No tools needed for these ‘securers’ and they could probably be homemade: http://www.downwindmarine.com/Johnson-Wrap-Pins-p-90890977.html
Livio Muench says:
Great tips. Thanks Brion